Review : The Loveable Rogue

A look at new West End Glasgow eatery

We all love a loveable rogue, don’t we? Whether it be Han Solo, Indiana Jones, or er, Joe Lazzerini, the owner-chef behind Glasgow’s newest gastropub, located on Great Western Road near Kelvinbridge underground station. Joe started his career in La Parmigiana, which was just along the road (sadly it closed in 2017 when Sandro retired) before venturing onto fine dining establishments such as Chardon D’or and Number One restaurant at the Balmoral Hotel in Edinburgh.

Now Joe is assisted by his partner Amalia Colaluca at front of house and together they have added their own little touches to the space that was previously The Hebridean. Thankfully it has retained all the lovely Harris Tweed furnishings and stag heads from before.

Scran goals here include things like Monkfish Cheek Scampi, Lobster Mac ‘n’ Cheese, Ox Cheek pie, or arrive on a Sunday for a proper roast so it’s most definitely not boring pub grub. See below for the full offering.

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Food

Haggis (£4) in snacky morsel ‘baw’ format with some sort of mayo dip. Ideal beer (or, er fizz) snack this, densely filled and very peppery.

Churro (£4). Whit? A Spanish dessert to start you say? Not so, these are all truffled up with goats’ cheese and honey. Light, snacky and again perfect for accompanying a drink.

Cauliflower, smoked cheese (£6) From Spain to I don’t know where, Italy or the Middle East? Cauliflower served with mild capers, flaked almonds, grape halves and a big dod of cheesey dip. This was pretty unusual – fruity, earthy, soft and crunchy all at the same time. Not as smoky as I’d hoped though but a really enjoyable dish.

Scallops, sweetcorn (£14). A trio of charred scallops, expertly fried with a golden-brown crust, served beside fried and crumbed pancetta in a sweetcorn jus and also topped with grilled sweetcorn. We always champion sweetcorn. Outside of Mexican and street food places, there’s not enough on menus for our liking, and sweetcorn with scallops is a bit of an unusual combo I think but it works.

Chicken Kiev, curry (£12.50). Fun fact: I have actually eaten Chicken Kiev in Kiev and it was rotten. Thankfully, this wasn’t. Actually this is the first time I’ve eaten it for ages and here it’s given a curried slant. Best way to think of it is as a Coronation Chicken Kiev. Top marks. Bonus points for more cauliflower on the side.

Halibut, leek (£18) with a side of Crispy New Potatoes, Garlic Aioli (£4). That’s a big slab of flatfish, nicely done with no bones and a crisp exterior.

We ordered the tatties to share, which were spot on – salted, fluffy and carby with a bright garlic dip.

Dark Chocolate crémeux (£6.50). Wherever there is dark chocolate on the menu, I’m there.
Lots of crunch here, with a thick base, smooth dark chocolate atop and a sort of crisp puffed rice honeycomb (reminiscent of Beta bars for anyone who remembers them) on top of that. The dessert is salted – or was it the ice cream? Either way, there’s an addictive, perhaps even enhanced ‘chocolateness’ when salt is present.

Coconut pannacotta (£6.50). Served so that it’s filled into a bowl rather than wobbling on a plate. Nice and firm; light and tangy with a minty edge.

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Verdict

The Loveable Rogue has a warm welcoming personality – tasteful decor, big windows, high ceilings. The food is really good – filling, comfort food with twists. Staff are polite and helpful. The Loveable Rogue is just what Glasgow needs right now, with the prospect of a number of restaurants not re-opening post-COVID-19.

Open Tuesday – Sundays from 12pm – late, getting here is easy as Kelvinbridge tube station is only 2 blocks away and buses stop on Great Western Rd. Accessibility-wise, wheelchair access may be an issue.

Also, if you just want to come in for a beer, a pint of Tennents is £4, Menabrea is £4.50 and it’s £3.50 for a glass of small house wine, 6.50 for a large or £17.95 for a bottle, cocktails are £6 – £8, which is good for the west end. Look out for the ‘Rogue’s Gallery’ on the walls too. We plan to come back to try their Sunday roast. Toilets were not checked on this visit.