Seafood Heaven just north of Oban
The idyllic Pierhouse Hotel on the Appin peninsula is situated right beside the passenger ferry to the isle of Lismore; boasting views of Loch Linnhe towards the summits of the Morvern peninsula, but it isn’t just the views that are worth the trip here. The Pierhouse is somewhere to visit if you want great seafood. ‘Seafood heaven’, it says on the board outside, and it truly is as we can attest.
This former pier master’s house on the shores of the loch is like finding your own Highland retreat, as the natural beauty of the Scottish Highlands meets the cosy comforts and nautical touches of the Pierhouse hotel.
Reaching Port Appin is easy by car, but we came by train to Connel Bridge and attempted to take the 918 bus to Appin and then a taxi from there. However, after waiting 30 minutes in the cold with no sign of the bus and nothing on the West Coast Motors tracker* we decided to take refuge in The Glue Pot pub at the Oyster Inn, with its roaring fire, so we re-arranged our taxi from there. Thankfully, Jimmy, the local taxi driver is lovely and has a warm, reliable car!
*when we contacted West Coast Motors they advised that despite the bus being listed on the WCM website, you actually need to use Citylink to track the bus, but when we tried this the Citylink tracker said that there was no 918 bus…(Scottish transport at its finest!)
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The hotel is a traditional stone building that fits perfectly into its surroundings. Its prime location right by the water means you can enjoy stunning views from the restaurant and some of the rooms. Although it is a sea loch the water was very calm during our stay.
The hotel has direct access to a small pier, allowing guests to take leisurely strolls along the water, soak up the fresh sea air, or take the short ferry ride to Lismore.
Departures are fairly regular, with two late sailings on Fridays and Saturdays.
If you like walking then a trip to Lismore could be worked into your itinerary, it’s a flat island and there’s no bus. The Lismore Gaelic Heritage Centre is a 75 minute walk away and it’s closed in winter.
Back to the Pierhouse – checking in was quick and easy, in minutes we were ensconced in our warm and cosy room.
Our Room at The Pierhouse Hotel
Rooms at The Pierhouse Hotel provide cliff or sea views, with some being dog-friendly. Our room looked out over the water and was tastefully decorated.
We had a king sized bed, telephone, hospitality tray with two Caramel wafers, Pukka and Brodies teabags, a TV, Wi-Fi and an ensuite shower room with Highland Soap Company toiletries.
Dining at The Pierhouse Hotel
The Pierhouse Hotel has a highly regarded restaurant, and is part of the same group which owns The Three Chimneys, which is perhaps the more famous of the two but we think the Pierhouse should be a destination in itself. They serve a variety of delicious dishes made from the freshest local ingredients and specialise in locally caught seafood.
Here’s the menu for The Pierhouse Hotel from our visit.
Starters
Loch Creran Oysters, fried and served on a tarragon gremolata. Two oysters caught in a local sea loch. We both prefer cooked oysters to raw for the taste and texture, if they’re battered, as they were here. Served with a very herby, flavoursome gremolata.
Arbroath Smokie and Mull Cheddar Soufflé – Unfortunately, it had begun to deflate by the time we photographed it but it had a lot of strong cheese and smokey flavour and tender fish, making it more memorable than the soufflé we had at Michel Roux Jr.’s Le Gavroche in London.
Main Courses
Piermaster Bouillabaisse – today’s choice of fish, mussels, langoustine, miso. We have actually been to Marseille and eaten bouillabaisse there, and you know what, this is every bit as good, possibly even better!
Catch of the day was monkfish, one of our favourite varieties of white fish; served with salsa verde and grilled perfectly. This meaty portion was as good as anything we ate at Nathan Outlaw’s 2 Michelin-starred restaurant in Cornwall.
Desserts
Sea buckthorn panna cotta. Sea buckthorn is one of those things we don’t see enough of on Scottish menus given that it grows in abundance in certain coastal locations. This was creamy and tart with an exquisite, delicate and crisp tuile on top.
Malted Ovation dark chocolate tart. Really malty Ovaltine vibes from this one. Dense, indulgent chocolate. Served with local Highland Fold ginger ice cream, made just a few miles away, on the other side of inner sea loch, Loch Creran.
After dinner, you can relax in one of the side rooms with a drink or a book, or retreat to your room to enjoy the sounds of the waves through the open window.
We took time out to sit by the fire with a local ale. They have both draft beer and bottles from the Glen Spean Brewing Co, who are located just outside of Fort William.
Breakfast
After what seems like the quietest night of sleep we awoke to watch the ferry make its way across to Lismore before making our way to the restaurant.
How is that for a view from your bedroom?
We picked our table and settled down with freshly pressed orange juice and Laprig valley apple juice alongside Wee Tea Company Tea and Forth Coffee. It was lovely to see a small bottle of milk on the table from the Isle of Gigha’s, Wee Isle Dairy.
Here is a look at what’s on the menu for breakfast at The Pierhouse Hotel.
Being beside the sea, we both picked fish! Mark chose the grilled Letterfinlay kipper with poached eggs.
After being beaten to the soufflé the night before, I wasn’t missing this Arbroath smokie toasted scone with poached eggs and hollandaise sauce.
After breakfast we chatted with Chef Michael Leathley who had just brought in some fresh oysters for the day’s service. Formerly at A’Challtainn fish restaurant in Glasgow, Michael has a stunning menu and we hope that we conveyed to him how happy we were with his food and our experience.
What to do around The Pierhouse Hotel and Port Appin
Port Appin is a perfect base for those looking to explore this part of the Scottish Highlands. Whether you like to walk, fish, cycle, kayak or wild swim, there is much to do and the staff at the hotel can point you in the right direction. Nearby is the Jubilee Bridge Trail, which is ideal for wildlife spotting, enjoying the scenery and a view of Castle Stalker, and you can also walk along a former railway line both north west and south east of here.
There is also a short circular route from the hotel to Clach Thoull (meaning ‘hole in the rock’ in Gaelic). This is a trail of 1 1/2 miles, which goes behind the hotel around the Port Appin headland and then back through the village, where you will find a combined Post Office and shop with a craft shop next door. If you need supplies during your stay these are just a 5-minute walk from the hotel.
Overall verdict
We loved our overnight stay at The Pierhouse Hotel in Port Appin, with its balance of comfort, scenery, and warm hospitality, it was just what we needed. The delicious food was the main draw for us. The restaurant currently has 2 AA rosettes but should really have 3 based on our experience.
Book a room or table at The Pierhouse Hotel here.
Where
The Pier House, Port Appin, Appin PA38 4DE
If you don’t have a car like us then we recommend booking Jimmy at Thistle taxi on 07584 177132. The trip from Connell Ferry to the Pierhouse will cost £35 – 40 each way.
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